Ep4 – English Custard Tarts

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Yummy yummy, custard tarts.  These were aways a cheeky treat when I was a kid.  After a days shopping in town with my sister and my mum, we’d pick some things up for dinner in M&S, because who wants to cook after a busy day walking round and shopping? Anyway we these were added to the basket and either nibbled on the way home or the first thing consumed once we got home and put our feet up. Either way a lovely memory of the little tart of eggy custard delicious!

So few ingredients, big flavour?
I don’t know why I was so surprised to see so few ingredient for this recipe, honestly what did I expect, it’s just pastry and custard.

The is made with a sweet pastry which needs to be worked a little more than usual. I was taught that the most important part about pastry is to use cold butter and get a good amount of height when rubbing it between your fingers.  This helps to keep the pastry light and short (biscuity). When you add the liquid it should be done so slowly so you can gage whether it is too little or too much.  Once the dough is formed it’s important to let it rest in the fridge before you use it.  This lets the butter harden up and makes it easier to roll out too. This was particularly important with tho particular pastry as at first it really did feel too wet. Oh well into the fridge it went.

How many eggs!?
I feel another angel cake is on the horizon, with this many leftover egg whites its that or meringues.  While the pastry rested in the fridge it was time to move onto the custard. This like the basic ingredients, was a simple process, almost too simple.  For a task that was meant to be a technical challenge, I was wondering where the challenge was.  Whisking the egg yolks with the sugar until pale and creamy took a little longer than expected. Pouring the milk slowly over the whisked eggs, was performed in a steady if somewhat cack-handed method.  I should point out that is could be the stage where things could go wrong, if your milk is too hot or you pour it too fast over the yolks you could end up with scrambled eggs.

Roll out, but how thick?
Once the custard was made, and was thankfully lump free, I had to start the second part of the prep for the cases.  After watching the programme there were a few tips I’d like to give.  To avoid the calamity that some some of the contestants encountered when in came to taking the tarts out of the baking tin, I thought it would be best to line the bottoms with some baking parchment. Is there a knack to putting it in the tin without a crimping the edges? When is came to rolling out the pastry there was no strict rule as to how thick the pastry needed to be rolled out,  so it was guess work for the next part. It needed to be thick enough to hole the shape once cooked, but not so thick that is was going to leave you with a soggy uncooked bottom. As stated it in the recipe I used the 11cm/4½in fluted cutter, but trying to out these into the cases crease free and no overlaps proved tricky.  Some ended up with a bigger lip over the side of the cases than others, definitely not uniform.  At this point its probably a good idea to put the tin with the pastry lined cases back into the fridge to harden up again, because after all the rolling and pfaffing to get them into the tin, the pastry had warmed up and softened. By cooling them down a bit you should get a crispy cases when you cook it

Oven temp gadget.
When I embarked on this project I wanted to make sure I was armed with the some of the vital tools that could help me to  at least attempt to make everything.  One of these purchases was an oven thermometer , bought from every bodies favourite kitchen store, Lakeland. Not having a fancy digital oven display  like they do on the show I have rely on a dial, that can be a little inaccurate. So armed with the new device I left it in the oven while I dealt with the last process of the tarts before putting them in the oven.

Pouring, balancing, grating fiasco!
Now I would just like to point out that I have made a quiche before, which requires a similar process of pouring  liquid into the paster case before cooking.  However with a quiche you usually have other ingredients sitting in the case before you fill it with a custard mixture, which helps to stabilise the liquid.  This was not the case with these tarts, which is why I only half filled them before getting ready to put them in the hot oven. The fun of the fiasco began not long after the oven was at temperature and the half filled tray was taken to the shelf.  Sadly I do not have the fancy telescopic shelved oven that features in the GBBO, much to my disappointment which meant that I had to balance the baking try on the shelf that pulled out half way, and then try to keep it flat while pouring in the rest of the custard. The last stage was to put the jug down, keep the try flat and then grate over the nutmeg.  Easier said than done, which meant there was a few puddles on the tin and some strong words vented.  In future, I must remember to grate or buy grated nutmeg first!

Slight dome, panic, remove.
Once the tarts were in the oven, it was not the time to relax.  I had to keep a close eye on them, sitting in front of the oven keeping a vigil on the process. The tarts needed to get a slight dome not them, anything bigger was dangerous, and meant that the custard was boiling instead, big no no. As soon as I saw this happening I turned the oven down, and with the  thermometer still in place I had to open the oven slightly in order to get the temperature down quicker. Once the time was up, and they were moved to a cooling rack with a good slight wobble. Pheww!

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Wait and cool…benefit of not being in the bake off tent!
This is one of the many times, I have get grateful that a, I was not restricted on time or the  being in the bake of tent.  After watching the show, it seemed clear that the contestants did not have enough time for the tarts to cool, before having to remove them.  Thankfully I didn’t have this problem so I left them to cool for as long as possible, before attempted to remove them. When the time did come to the removal, I was thankful for the paper discs that I put in the bottom of each case.  Each tart did require a slight, delicate nudge with a blunt knife but nothing that caused too much damage.

Voila, cooked, and set.
The final result looked and tasted delicious.  Some could have done with a little more nutmeg, and some got more colour that others, but overall not bad for a first attempt. Other than trying to make them look more uniform, and not having custard bubbled over the case, they came out ok. Definitely best eaten on the same day, otherwise the pastry can get a little soft and soggy. When I make these again there will be a few things that I would do differently. The first being to use pre-grated nutmeg rather than go through the pain and heat of the balancing act with an oven venting out heat into you face. The second would be to cook with a baking sheet under the pastry tin.  This would better conduction of heat for the bottom of the tart, making doubly sure that you don’t get the dreaded soggy bottom.  The third and final thing would be to buy them from the shop after a hard day of retail therapy rather than trying to make them!

Ep3 – Floating Islands

Floating Islands - Finale!

Well that was a weekend of a very unsuccessful culinary adventure. I was feeling confident about this weeks technical challenge, which may well have been my downfall…always cook with some fear of the unknown! I’d made these little floating beauties once before, as  a lazy Sunday afternoon experiment, and they were perfect, light, quenelles of fluffyness  on a bed of custard (or tucker’d as my dad calls it) topped with toasted almonds rather than the spun sugar, general consensus of that dish, yum!

So onward we go, with everything measured, no shell or yolk in the egg, and electric whisked primed for action. I was a little unsure about the size of pan to use for the poaching as the liquid seemed such a small quantity. In order to get some depth to the poaching liquor I decided to go for a stainless steel frying pan. This week, working out of my mother’s kitchen there was quite an array of pans to choose from.

With the liquor mixed, I left it on a low heat as instructed and started to whisk the egg whites until soft peaks had formed, and then started to add the sugar, gradually until stiff, glossy peaks had formed.

Floating Islands - Whipped Egg WhitesNow for the quenelle dance of the spoons. Doing this with potato, ice cream or sorbet, it all a lot easier and cleaner because they have a dense, firmer texture, when it comes egg whites  your effectively trying to mould a cloud! You think you have it, with two sides looking good, then you turn the third and oops you’ve lost it.  Anyway once I was finally pleased with the shape having turned it several times, losing half the contents of the spoon in the process, I plopped it gently into the now simmering milk mixture. Checking that it was sitting happily in the liquid, I then started on the next oval cloud of egg white.

When I eventually had 4 in the pan I gently covered it with the lid and stood over them willing them to be the success I knew they could be. When it came close to the turning stage I removed the lid and was greeted by bubbling liquid around the islands, so I instantly checked the heat was the lowest it could be, worrying that it was too high. It was clear that the islands have gotten a little big, so maybe next time, only put 2 or three in the pan at a time, do not over crowd them.  Turning them over is a delicate process, as you don’t want to lose the shape, so gently does it with a spoon.

Floating Islands - Flat poached IslandsAt this point I was started to get little nervous, especially as when you touched them they seemed to deflate slightly. Did this happen before?  I asked myself, but I couldn’t remember as it had been over a year ago! I continued to turn the rest and waited till the time was up. Lifting them out of the pan and placing on a plate, there was yet more deflation…oh uh!

At this point all cockiness had gone, so the next batch waiting in the bowl would be closely monitored. Returning to the egg whites they too seemed to have deflated somewhat, becoming loser in the bowl, so I gave them another attack with the whisk. Quenelling began again, and I decided this time to poach them without the lid. This time watching like a hawk I became less impatient to turn them, leaving them for what was their allocated time, 4/5 minutes.  During this time I turned to the deflated islands on the plate, most of which. I decided to try one, to check the texture etc.  At first it seemed fine, but definitely not as fluffy as it should be, and then locking closer at what was on my spoon translucent layer towards the bottom of the spoon, which was slightly rubbery in texture and not what it should be. In taste it had distinctive taste of egg whites.  Now I know that sounds odd but it was closer to the taste of eggs that have been poached or boiled, definitely not what you’re looking for in a meringue.

Continuing  with the rest of the islands, the second batch were ready to come out, and carefully I lifted them from the sea of frothy milk placing them lightly on a plate. They deflated slightly but not as much and there was definitely one keeping its form, fingers crossed it would stay that way while I did the custard.  I still had more egg whites in the bowl, but decided they were beyond saving, being over whipped into submission!

Taking the warm milk and pouring it through a sieve, you need to then pour it over the whisked eggs yolks, which you should have whisked while your making your islands like a hawk! Once you’ve whisked the egg and milk mixture together you then need to pour it into a saucepan and stir continuously until it thickens. It took a while to thicken, and I had to remind myself (after a good 10 minutes of continuous stirring) that it was meant to be a crème anglaise not a custard, meaning that it could be thinner. Once the custard/crème anglaise is made its then onto the sugar!

By this time I’m feeling hot, frayed, deflated like my islands and can’t really face another agonising wait for sugar to get to the right temperature before you can shake it off the back of a spoon into whisp of crunchiness. But this is a technical challenge and I have to persevere. Onward…

While waiting for the sugar to melt I oiled the plastic rolling-pin, ready to catch what should be the sugar strands.  Whether it was the heat or the general feeling of doom, I kind of new that this wasn’t going to go well. Instead of strands I had blob and droplets and had coated the hob and surrounding areas with sticky sugar. Keep going, its nearly over, but by this point I had little or no love left in me for this challenge. I presented the best ones, sat down heavily on the sofa and demolished the whole thing, which didn’t feel that rewarding either. However they didn’t taste too bad, and the custard was good, if a little sweet for my liking (which is saying something )

In hindsight:

  1. Don’t over whip the eggs
  2. Have plenty of work surface
  3. Try poaching in just milk, and don’t make them so big
  4. Practice the sugar spinning

 

 

Ep2 – English Muffins


This week its time for a favourite, English muffins.  I like these much better than crumpets especially with some poached eggs and hollandaise sauce, but I have never made them. Bread is not one of my regular bakes, unlike my mum who makes it at least twice a week and has done since I was a child.

GBBO 2013 - English Muffins
So hear with all my ingredients it was time to get messy.  Messy was an understatement and so was the recipe’s statement that once everything was mixed together it should form a soft dough.  It was so soft and wet it almost fell through my fingers

Oh my dough…
The do was so wet I wasn’t too sure how to knead it. I ended up just pushing, pulling and swirling it around the workspace in the vain hope that I was doing the right thing.  After about 5 minutes it’s was still so wet and stuck to my web my fingers so much that I couldn’t even even see my fingers! Seeing no end to this gunky mess I decided to add some more flour the hope that that would firm and dry things out a bit

Getting better….but more flour…done
After a period of time, a lot longer than the 10 minutes stated in the recipe, it eventually resembled a dough that was smooth and stretchy, and I felt it was ok to stop and put it back in the bowl to rise.

Now dough rising  in my house has always been somewhat varied.  I have tried various methods, putting it the airing cupboard, by a window and on top of a radiator.  But all of these produced slow if not no results.  The only methods that seems to work for me is sticking the bowl with the dough on a bench/chair in front of a hot oven (with the door closed)  the other one is turning the oven on the lowest heat while making the dough and turning it off when you have finished kneading, then placing the bowl in the oven, with the door slightly ajar.  You have to be careful with this last method as you don’t want the oven too hot, as it will cause the dough to over proof and potentially form a crust, a definite no no. Oh the dream of having a proving drawer like they do on GBBO!

Roll, cut and rise.
After about 1.5 hours of proving, it has risen but maybe not completely doubled in size. I tipped it out on to the polenta and flour dusted surface and started to roll it out.  To be honest there really didn’t seem like there was going to be enough dough to be able to get 8 muffins out of it, so I rolled it a little thinner than the 2.5cm stated in the recipe.  I think if i had had more success with the proving I would have had to do this.  It get exactly 8 muffins cut, it is important to use the 8cm ring, and use the straight edge.  I reckon it you used the fluted edge you’d a) not have a traditional English muffin and b) they probably wouldn’t rise as well on the second proof and cooking, similar to scones.

The remaining polenta was used for dusting the baking sheets and  the top of the cut muffins, which then needed to be left for the second proving. This time I used the bench in front of the oven technique!

No baking griddle so it’s the heavy based frying pan for me
Even thought they had risen a bit more with the second proove, I was hoping that they would improve on cooking, as bread does.  So on a super low heat I put four in the pan and hope for the best.

Woohoo they did rise! What was once semi airy dough discs was now turning into little puffed up rounds of yummy dough.As in the recipe I stuck to the 5-6 rule on each side, making sure not the touch them much int he process so that they would get the light brown colouring that you see on the traditional shop versions.

As I mentioned previously I think that they would have risen more if the first prove didn’t take so long and the rolled out dough was more thicker, closer to 2.5cm. But for a first attempt I’m pretty  pleased with how they turned out

Leftover lemon curd, butter and some little animals!
I had 8 nicely coloured and hot muffins, ready to be served wight the left over Lemon curd from last week, YUM! Needless to say, they didn’t last long, even without the aid of a poached egg and hollandaise.

One last note, don’t forget the leftover dough, after you have cut out your 8.  They make for great testers for the cooking times, plus they can end up looking like an odd giraffe shaped muffin!

Ep1 – Angel Cake

GBBO 2013 - Angel Cake Finale
A new series of the BBC’s The Great British Bake Off begun this week, and I have made a pledge to myself: I will make all of the technical bakes the weekend following the broadcast.  This may sound easy, but I have set myself a few ground rules

1. Use the recipe published on the BBC website which accompanies the series
2. Buy all of the necessary equipment needed for the task, do not cheat
3. Work alone, no assistance or advice can be given by outside parties
4. NO CHEATING!

Hunting down the pan
The first challenge of the series is Angel Cake with a Lemon & Passion Curd, and after the broadcast on Tuesaday, I was straight on the internet trying to track down the infamous angel cake tin. There were a few boundaries I should point out, the first being the timescale.  To be able to make the cake over the weekend I would need to have ordered the cake tin before the show for it to be delivered by Friday/Saturday! The second, location.  I’m happy to travel to collect a tin depending on where that is. Last and not least the price, and location comes into play with this too.  If I’m going to see these challenges through I will have to have some sort of limit on my spending, whether that is looking out for reduced ingredients in the supermarkets, doing price comparison on the ingredients or simply finding the best deal on a cake tin.

GBBO 2013 - Angel Cake baking tin

After a day of surfing the web I was left with two options, hire the tin from a Dentons catering firm in Clapham, or buy it from Divertimenti in Marylebone. Either way including travel, they worked out both the same, but logistics meant that it was a sunny lunchtime stroll to Marylebone rather than an early start to get to Clapham. Working in central London you would think that there would be plenty of stores that would stock obscure kitchen utensils, but other than John Lewis and possibly Marks&Spencer you’d be lucky to find somewhere that wouldn’t make your eyes pop out of your head when you see the price! Divertimenti is a great store and I would love to be able to stock my kitchen with the plethora of items on display, but until I have a big kitchen, storage and the winning lottery ticket this will just have to wait. The tin cost a little more than is advertised on the website, as they come from a different warehouse.  I always find this odd, as I’m the one picking the item, they don’t have to package or deliver it, but hey if you need a tin fast you just have to suck it up I guess!

How many eggs?

GBBO 2013 - Angel Cake

10 eggs to be precise, all separated! The whites need to whisked until you have stiff peaks adding lemon zest, lemon juice, cream of tartar and salt part the way through.  Before the recipe tells you to start whisking the egg whites it asks you to sift the flour with 100g of caster sugar.  Being a little over enthusiastic and only having read the recipe once (rookie mistake), I missed the 100g measurement and added all of the sugar to the flour! Of course I didn’t realise this until the recipe says add the remaining 200g to the egg whites, “what remaining sugar?….bugger!“. Needless to say thats a portion of flour & sugar wasted!!

Now that I have lovely white peaks, not too stiff though, it’s time to start folding in the flower. I’ve always been told to use a metal spoon for this, which I presume is so the mixture doesn’t stick too much. Using a figure of 8 action to fold in the flour maybe a slow process but it helps to keep the air in the mix.

In the pan and knife it
Because this cake mix contains no fat, you don’t grease the tin.  I know the tin is apparently non-stick but I’m sure I’m not the only one who still lines some of these ‘non-stick’ tins after some adhesive problems! But as I said in my ground rules, I have to follow the recipe and not cheat, which means trusting the recipe. After transferring the cake mix from the bowl to the tin, its important to run a knife around the centre of cake, following the general circular shape of the tin. This helps to cut through any large air pockets that may have formed when pouring the mix in.  Now with fingers crossed it goes in oven…

GBBO 2013 - Angel Cake batter

What about the egg yolks?
Lemon curd. This was another first for me, I love lemon curd, but I’ve never made it. It’s hard to believe that a mixture that is made of egg yolks, sugar, lemon juice and lemon zest can turn thick enough to fill one jar, let alone two. You have to heat it over a low heat until it coats the bag of a spoon, which takes a lot longer than 5-7 minutes instructed by the recipe. I’ll be honest, if I was doing this on the actual GBBO I think I would have had a few problems with this curd. I probably wouldn’t have thought to heat the egg yolks with everything else, instead I might have cooked down the sugar and lemon juice then poured it slowly into the whisked yolk, no doubt resulting in a scrambled disaster! Once it was thick enough you have to pour it all through a sieve to get rid of the lemon zest, then pour into the  sterilised jars. This of course is easy, and rewarding, not just because I now have two jars, but also the yummy candied lemon peel.  Do NOT throw this away, it’s dangerously moreish!

Out it comes, nicely does it
Yippee it did rise, I have to say I was a little anxious about that part.  Now time for the balancing act, and a little prayer that gravity will do the rest and help to release it from the pan. We’ll see…

It’ll fall right, maybe a little nudge
After about 40 minutes I’m getting a little impatient.  I have never been very good a this part, waiting, I just want to get onto the next part! Anyway back to this particular cake, still sitting upside down on a cooling rack.  Armed with a pallet knife I decided to give gravity a little nudge, going carefully around the outside of the pain, making sure not to damage the outside of the cake.  Then even more carefully, and this bit was definitely more tricky go around the the centre ring. Tipping it back onto the rack, turning it back upside down and with a little tap, it fell! Now that part was over, I left it alone, a little less impatient than before.

Whipped cream, hmm more like cottage cheese
Having made this recipe I have decided never to use whipping cream again, whats the difference, why not just use double cream? I found that it takes much longer to whisk up whipping cream than it does for double cream, so why waste the time and effort?

GBBO 2013 - Angel Cake overwhipped cream

But I have set the rules for a reason, and this one calls for whipping cream.  The first attempt at whipping the cream was with a Kenwood mixer. I was watching it like a hawk, then turned away for less than a minute and voila, whipped cream is now cottage cheese! Dammit! By this time, I had to pack everything up and get ready to take the whole thing to a friends for dinner.  This is another part of the pledge, to not to eat everything between myself and boyfriend. Instead to share the tasty but most definitely unhealthy, treats with everyone we know.

Dollop, spread, pour
Whipping cream, part deux, commenced with a detour to the shops for more cream.  This time I decided to hand whisk it, no electrics here, and keep a steady eye on the progress.  Once perfection was reached it was time to carefully spread it over the plated, cooled cake.

Yuck passion fruit
For the finishing touches I had to mix the 2 passion fruit with some of the cooled and wonderfully soft set lemon curd.  I have never liked passion fruit. Ever since I was a kid and mum always used to by Tropical fruit squash. In my eyes it smells and tastes the smell of dirty armpits. Whenever I can taste it white wine (mainly sauvignon blanc) I can’t drink it. The idea of mixing it with the yummy lemon curd really didn’t entice me much as to its merits.  But hey ho on we go…

Yum lemon curd and passion fruit!
After pouring the passion fruit and lemon curd over the cake, which now looks like a cake smothered with frog spawn! As they say the proof is in the pudding, and wow! The cake was light as air, and the curd with the passion fruit helped to cut through the cream, and there was not a single taste of a dirty armpit!